Hawaiian cuisine comes to Fallston
Find a taste of the islands
in the chicken katsu, spam in nori, Queen Street poke
Don't let the name fool you — Uncle's Hawaiian Grindz in Fallston is not a coffee shop.
Some people think “grindz” refers to ground coffee beans, said Kosmas “Tommie” Koukoulis. But the casual spot in the Fallston Village Center, which Koukoulis owns with Hawaiian-born executive chef Kaimana Chee, is a full-blown restaurant specializing in the Aloha State's island cuisine.
In the Hawaiian dialect, “grindz” is slang for food or good eats, Koukoulis said. He also explained the use of “uncle” in the name; it's another nod to the Central Pacific islands, where the term denotes respect for an older person.
Once you understand the origin, the restaurant's unusual moniker starts to make sense.
“We wanted something authentic,” Koukoulis said. “It's catchy.”
The farm-to-table cuisine — with dishes like poke (pronounced POH-keh), chicken katsu (a breaded cutlet), and Spam in nori — is a pleasant surprise in Harford County, where corporate restaurants seem to dominate the terrain.
Kids are not left out. A children's section of the menu includes items like a grilled shrimp skewer and burger sliders. There are burgers for grown-ups, too — like The Duke, made with Roseda Farm beef.
Koukoulis' wife is Hawaiian, and he fell in love with her native cuisine when he visited Oahu. Chee, a Silver Spring caterer who grew up on Oahu's north shore, brings his authentic expertise to the kitchen.
“Why not an Hawaiian restaurant?” Koukoulis said. “It's delicious and it's different.”
Misayo's mahi mahi ($15.50 lunch/$22.50 dinner) was a delicious broiled white fillet crusted with furikake (a Japanese seasoning that includes sesame seeds and seaweed flakes) and served over Hawaiian greens that were braised in sweet coconut milk and ginger. A lovely passion fruit beurre blanc sauce dotted with Sriracha oil encircled the fish.
The da kalua pig ($11/$14.50) is named after a type of preparation. In Uncle's version, pork shoulder is smoked in banana leaves and then shredded. A pile of tender meat is served atop a flavorful grilled cabbage steak with onion jam and Hawaiian sweet greens.
The only thing Hawaiian about The Duke burger ($10.50) is its tribute to Duke Kahanamoku, considered the father of modern surfing. The champion athlete would be proud of this sublime burger, featuring a fat beef patty stacked with bacon, cheddar cheese, bibb lettuce, tomatoes and mayonnaise.