As the author of “The Cuisine of California” and “The California Cook,” I researched the history of what we know as Chinese chicken salad. It turns out the first sighting of this now-American classic was whipped up at the famous Santa Monica, California, restaurant Madame Wu’s.

Legend has it actor Cary Grant suggested the salad to Madame Wu. From there, the salad became an instant classic. Her Chinese chicken salad may not be authentic, but it has been imitated throughout the world. It really is Asian Californian cuisine.

Since it was first served at Madame Wu’s in the 1950s, many restaurants have made their own interpretations. Chicken salad served at Wolfgang Puck’s Chinois in Santa Monica and at Los Angeles hot spot Chin Chin have become house favorites. Each restaurant has their own twist, whether it’s the addition of crunchy noodles, preserved red ginger or spicy dressing.

The following recipe comes from me and my partner Barbara Windom. We had a business called The Charcuterie and made this for takeout restaurants in the 1990s. Our chicken salad differed from other Asian-style chicken salads because it uses cucumbers and carrots instead of deep-fried noodles for its crunchy texture.

Many Asian chicken salads add fruit, but this one is all veggies and chicken. This colorful, protein-rich salad is satisfying as a main course for a summer picnic, luncheon or buffet. The dressing is slightly spicy, depending upon how much chili oil you add. Make sure to use dark sesame oil since it has much more flavor.

Feel free to add your own signature with toasted almonds, shredded red cabbage, red bell pepper slices or roasted peanuts. You can make this at least four hours ahead; just keep it keep refrigerated. To complete your picnic, serve a simple Asian-style noodle salad alongside the chicken salad.Asian Shredded Chicken Salad

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

For the garnish:

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

For the dressing:

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon peanut butter

Pinch sugar

Pinch Chinese hot mustard

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chili oil

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1/4 cup dark sesame oil

For the salad:

2 pounds chicken breasts, boned or 1 market roasted chicken

1 medium European cucumber, julienned

2 carrots, peeled and julienned

2 green onions, thinly sliced on diagonal

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

1. To toast sesame seeds: Place in a medium skillet over high heat. Shake until seeds turn light brown, about 2 minutes. Remove immediately from skillet, cool and reserve.

2. For dressing: Combine all ingredients except the oils and mix well using a whisk. Slowly whisk oils into dressing until combined. Taste for seasoning.

3. In a medium skillet with high sides or a large saucepan, bring enough water to cover the chicken to a simmer. Add chicken breasts and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes, depending on their size, or until just tender.

4. Cool the chicken in the liquid. Drain chicken and remove skin. Shred the chicken by tearing the meat into long, thin pieces Or cut it with a knife. (If using market roasted chicken, remove skin and bones. Shred the breasts, thighs and drumsticks.) Reserve in a medium serving bowl.

5. In the serving bowl, add cucumber, carrots, green onions, and 1 tablespoon cilantro to the chicken. Add dressing and mix well. Taste for seasoning.

6. If serving at a picnic, transfer to a transportable bowl and bring along a set of tongs. Garnish with sesame seeds and remaining cilantro.