Jumpstart your spring gardening
Anne Arundel experts
have answers to any questions you might have
Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a green thumb wannabe, it’s time to start getting busy for the coming spring.
Starting seeds and preparing vegetable or flower beds is the thing to do in late February and early March.
And it can be fun.
“You can get a lot of satisfaction growing your own vegetables, flowers and plants,” said Nancy Allred, interim Master Gardener Coordinator for Anne Arundel County. “You learn something, and it has a lot of health benefits — getting outdoors, getting exercise and absorbing that vitamin D.”
There are plenty of places to turn if you need tips and supplies. Tops are local garden centers, the online resources of the University of Maryland Extension including its Home and Garden Information Center (extension.umd.edu/hgic or 410- 531-5556) and the Master Gardener program (extension.umd.edu/mg or 410-531-5557) , which can answer food and ornamental gardening queries.
Whether you have a penchant for flowers or herbs and veggies, getting seeds started is key, unless you want to plunk down a few dollars per plant for something that could cost just pennies and a little time.
“Now is definitely the time to start seeds. We are about 12 weeks from full spring,” said Heather Wheatley, a horticulturalist for Homestead Gardens, a garden center with locations in Davidsonville and Severna Park.
You’ll need a growing medium, seeds and some form of containers. And, initially, a means of keeping the starting soil warm.
Choosing which seed varieties to plant takes a little research it you are new to gardening in the area. Ask around, check online, or check with the extension office or its website which has a list of cultivars that do well in the area like Marketmore cucumbers or Better Boy tomatoes.
Timing is also important. Different plants should be started at varying dates according to the last frost in the area, on average from March 27 to April 6 according to Maryland Extension. Broccoli and peppers, for instance, should be started eight weeks ahead of the frost date, tomatoes six weeks and squash four or less.
The growing medium should be light.
“I recommend an organic starting soil. It’s very light,” Wheatley said. Or you can make your own using peat moss and vermiculite (or perlite).
Pick up black starting trays and or plug trays that have each plant in its own small plug of soil for transplanting. Loosely fill the tray and smooth the surface, Wheately said.
“Then plant the seeds according to size. Tiny basil seeds, you put on the surface then lightly cover. Bigger seeds like beans get planted twice the depth of their size,” she said.
Lightly water and cover with the clear plastic cover that comes with the tray.
“Then you watch it,” Wheatley said. “You should see condensation form if you have the right amount of moisture.”
But be sure not to make the soil too wet. “If it’s too wet and cold air gets to it, the plant will get root rot,” Wheatley said.
Then you need to keep the soil warm. A warm window sill could be enough, but experts recommend using a light or warming pad. A fluorescent light hung close to the surface of the soil works well.
“As your seeds germinate, they need constant warmth. Some use a fluorescent light hung with light chains to they can raise the light up as the plants grow,” Allred said.
Keeping the soil moist is a must, but don’t overdo it. “Use a spray bottle to keep the soil moist rather than drowning it,” Allred said.
Before setting young plants out in the garden, you must harden them off. “Set them out in the sun for a few hours a day then bring them in,” Allred said. “Put them out a little longer each day for two weeks. That will harden them to be put in the garden.”
But before you commit plants to the outdoor garden, that soil must be readied.
An adage in gardening circles is you are actually growing healthy soil to which you add seeds. Well-draining soil, rich in nutrients is the goal.
One key to preparing garden beds, whether for vegetable production or flowers and shrubs, is a soil test. The results will reveal nutrient levels and soil PH to determine what, if any, soil amendments are necessary.
“I like to use the Mason jar test,” Wheatley said. “Fill the jar half full with soil from your garden, then fill the other half with water. And shake it good. Then put in on the counter.”
The soil will settle in gradations — Sand on the bottom, loam in the middle and clay on top. Then you can see what your soil is made of and can adjust to accomodate a good even mix, she said.
Simple soil test kits can be bought at garden centers and hardware stores. They measure the basic nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus levels and soil acidity.
But Wheatley and Allred both recommend sending sampled soils to a lab, especially if it’s a new garden space. Basic testscost $9 to $20 and also reveal magnesium and calcium levels among others.
“We prefer the University of Delaware laboratory, though any good lab in the region is good,” Wheatley said.
The Extension Service recommendation list included Delaware and other institutions in the region.
Armed with test results, you can determine what might be added to the soil to create the best conditions.
Organic additive products are recommended not only for general good health for you and your family but also to help keep pollinators healthy, too, Wheatley said.. Without bees we would not have much of anything to show for our labors.
For more gardening tips, visit University of Maryland Extension website at
PREVIOUS ARTICLE
