Dubai fashion show without catwalks promotes modest wear
A weeklong fashion event in Dubai this spring was held without catwalks, models or skin-baring designs. Instead, around 30 designers of fashionable modest wear — some Muslim and others not — from nearly two dozen countries showcased their long-sleeved and floor-length pieces on large screens.
Buyers could see and touch the collections up close in one of Dubai’s newest shopping districts, a shimmering maze of walkways and fountains. At the start of the event, a handful of designs were paraded around the plaza.
“We did away with the catwalk. We thought that was one of the most antiquated things,” said Alia Khan, chairwoman of the Islamic Fashion and Design Council, explaining the decision to nix the most common elements of fashion shows around the world.
Khan spoke March 28, the opening night of the event dubbed “A Modest Revolution.” It showcased the latest creations by designers hoping to capitalize on a growing desire by Muslim shoppers to wear modest clothing that is also fashionable.
Italian designer Isabella Caposanno’s long-sleeved eveningwear dresses can take months to make by hand, and some cost upward of $37,000. Her clients include Arab royalty.
Under-Rapt offers modest sportswear, with longer, looser tops. Its leggings include flaps that fall just below the hips to give extra cover to the rear and front.
Another line, called Blue Meets Blue, employs refugees who have resettled in the Chicago area to make dressy and formal wear.
“We’re trying to change the stereotypes of refugees in the U.S., as well. We want people to know that they’re very hardworking, they’re very excited to be in their new country and they want an opportunity to show that,” said Shahd Alasaly, designer and founder of the American-made brand.
Alasaly says her customers aren’t just Muslims but also Orthodox Jewish women who want to wear something that’s “classy, timeless and elegant.”
How women choose to dress modestly varies around the world. Often, Muslim women who cover their hair with a hijab, or headscarf, in public do so in ways that reflect the local culture and their interpretation of Islamic guidelines.
But even women who dress modestly and cover their hair can find themselves at odds with conservatives who say the hijab should not be eye-catching and should conceal a woman’s beauty from strangers.
“Modest fashion comes in so many different ways and I think people tend to pigeonhole it and stereotype it,” Khan said. “Designers are coming from all walks of life. All have their own interpretation.”
On the opening night of the event, Vivy Yusof, a designer and businesswoman from Malaysia, wore a cream-colored headscarf by her brand, “dUCk,” paired with a Petite Malle Louis Vuitton bag and a bejeweled black blazer and black slacks made by South Asian designers.
“I think it’s really funny that now modest fashion is booming so much, because that’s how we’ve been dressing for ages,” she said. “Layering, covering, long sleeves, long pants, you know, wearing the hijab or not, that’s how we’ve been dressing as Muslim women.”
The 30-year-old and her husband founded Fashion Valet, an e-commerce website in Malaysia that features more than 400 South Asian designers, many of them selling modest wear collections. She selected six South Asian designers to showcase their pieces at her stall.
Mainstream designers and retailers are also trying to tap into the niche market for modest clothing.
Earlier this year, Macy’s launched a modest clothing line to appeal to Muslim fashionistas. The new line, available online for now, includes ruffled high-neck tunics, flowy jumpsuits and bell-sleeve ankle-length cardigans.
Nike has debuted a hijab designed for female Muslim athletes. DKNY in 2014 launched a modest wear collection for Ramadan, the holy month when Muslims fast from sunup to sundown. Dolce & Gabbana has also released a collection of headscarves and coordinated abayas, the robes worn by women in Arab Gulf countries.