


14 wines for your Thanksgiving table

The beautiful mishmash is near, and I can't wait to mix my food together.
I always felt bad for the kid who, with extreme vigilance, made sure that no group of food on his plate ever touched another. If the person scooping food onto his plate accidentally bumped a pile of mashed potatoes with an errant kernel of corn, the kid went ballistic. Mixing foods together was always a goal of mine, and if a third-party scooper were to give me a head start on the task with a sloppy scoop, all the better. Go ahead, dribble some gravy on my corn; I was probably going to do that anyway.
Now, I don't adhere to the “It's all going to the same place” philosophy of food mixing. Too fatalistic. I'm of the school that says several flavors, textures and temperatures in a single bite are often better than a series of single flavor/texture/temperature bites. You know the school.
The Thanksgiving meal is a great one for mixing. A little turkey here, a little stuffing there, a flourish of mashed potato mixed with some green bean casserole. And, hey, let's drink our Thanksgiving wine with the same freestyle spirit.
Rather than pour one red and one white, put out a selection of bottles and let people decide what they want to try during the meal. If you can manage, put two or three wine glasses in front of each setting, so your diners can customize their pairings. One wine with the sweet potato and toasted marshmallow-topped piece of dark meat, another with the stuffing and cranberry sauce melange.
Just keep a few ideas in mind for your wines. Lean to the lighter side for the most part. Save your California chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons for another night. Opt instead for lighter whites and reds like pinot gris and pinot noir. And, of course, sparkling wine is always welcome at dinner. Food loves acidity in wine, and it's especially important when you're trying to cut through the gut-slugging richness of traditional Thanksgiving fare. Keep your acidity up and your tannins down, and bring the fruit whenever possible. Thanksgiving is fun and lively, and your wines should reflect that.
Below are some Thanksgiving wine suggestions, grouped generally by style, all from the USA. Encourage guests to try as many as they like and remind them to pour small, so they can sample several styles. When they find a favorite or two, fill 'em up and clink glasses.
Bubbles
You could start with one of these sparkling wines as an aperitif or drink it through the entire meal. The
Whites
For whites, Oregon pinot gris is usually a good bet. The
For sauvignon blanc lovers, the
The
Reds
Pinot noir is the classic Thanksgiving red, and here are two nice ones. From California's Santa Barbara County, the
A Rhone-style blend of grenache, mourvedre and cinsault, the
For a more powerful wine, try the