Venice Tavern, one of Highlandtown's last basement bars, has been serving beer and banter at South Conkling and Bank Streets since Prohibition was repealed in 1933. Mary Victoria and Frank DeSantis Sr. added a side stairwell to their corner house, leading to a compact bar serving shots, beer, and spaghetti with meatballs.

 Inside, a portrait of Franklin Roosevelt, the patron saint of Depression-era tavern owners, still hangs over the dimly lit bar. Another hero honored in this classic dive bar is Vince DeSantis, a lightweight boxer who ran the tavern with his brother, Frank DeSantis Jr., after their parents died. Ten years ago this month, Frank DeSantis Jr. sold the family watering hole to his grandson, Dominic DeSantis.

 Frank DeSantis Jr., 82, recalls when Italian, Polish and German families dominated this rowhouse neighborhood. When Dominic DeSantis took over, Venice Tavern was still a rough and rowdy joint for thirsty customers loyal to Bud, Pabst, and Miller High Life in cans. Dominic saw that the neighborhood was changing, and brought in $3 craft beers to attract a younger crowd. Today, the customers are young and old, white and black, with old-school local characters blending in with hipsters, Latinos, and doctors and nurses from Johns Hopkins Hospital. Some of the longtime customers are even trying the craft beers.